Tales of South 2: Ancient City of Madurai

 Jasmine City of India

    Jasmine, a sweet-scented flower also referred to as "Malligai" by the majority of Dravidian people is an important element of Indian culture. But do you know the biggest market of Jasmine in India? Yes, it's Madurai, an ancient temple city known for the glorious Menakshi Amman temple where the famous sweet-scented Malligai has been grown for centuries. References to Madurai’s jasmine is can be traced back to Sangam literature which revolves around 300 BC to AD 300.

    In Hindu rituals, pujas or auspicious occasions remain incomplete without the family members decorating their homes with fresh, sweet-scented Malligai. For children, young girls, brides and married women as well as the elderly women, tucking in a strand of jasmine is a part of their beauty, an indication of their personality and a celebration of an auspicious occasion.

Once a Soldier, Always a Soldier

   Madurai, the ancient city located in the south Indian state of TamilNadu, is known for the iconic Meenakshi Amman temple. Surrounded by 14 gopurams (gateway towers), this is the only temple in the world known for worshipping goddesses even before the god itself. I parked my motorcycle outside the eastern gopuram and observed the crowd waiting in a queue for DARSHANAM. As a covid19 precaution, I avoid crowd all the time but I am not willing to miss this popular pilgrimage site for which I rode almost 350 km from Pondicherry. At the end of the line, I saw two people, an old and young man talking to each other. I did not give attention to the old man and approached the young man assuming he might be aware of English (as I don't speak Tamil, English is the only language left for communication).

    "How much time it will take for the Darshanam ?" I asked the young man. The old man turned to me and asked "where did you come from?" that is in English. I was unable to comprehend that this old man at an ancient town like Madurai speaks fluent English. "I am from Hyderabad" I replied. "Your accent is not Hyderabadi at all!" queried the old man. I got surprised, this man even knows Hyderabad accent. "Sir, I am from southern Odisha(India) but staying at Hyderabad from last 5 years working as a software professional " I replied humbly with a pinch of embarrassment. "Humm, don't worry, the queue will move fast and you will have Darshanam quickly" replied the old man. I breathed relaxation as I have many places to cover in Madurai and certainly don't want to spend my time in a queue.

   I joined them in the queue. Exactly as he said, the queue moved fast and I found myself at baggage counter. But the problem is I didn't have cash with me and I didn't want to go out to ATM and start the queue all over again. I got tensed. The old man sensed it & gave me some cash. I thanked him and we entered into the temple together. From Darshanam to the exit, throughout the temple tour, he explained the legacy of the temple and shown few interesting things like a painting of Linga on the inner roof looks towards you even in all direction, the east tower can be seen from a particular location inside the temple, invading marks of Islamic and British rulers to the temple and popularity of Jasmine flower and its association with this temple. I certainly mesmerised with grandeur of this ancient temple and after knowing many things, I was able to understand why people travel to Madurai primarily to witness this temple only. When we came out, he introduced his name as Murugan, a veteran of the Indian army. He also inquired my accommodation for that day and gave his mobile number to connect in case of any problem with my accommodation. I can feel nothing but deep respect towards him. In his youth, he served India as a soldier and now he is serving our country with his kindness and wisdom. Hence popular saying ONCE A SOLDIER, ALWAYS A SOLDIER.

Atithi Devo Bhava

     I was at Samanar Malai, a hillock with a temple located in Keelakuyilkudi village, 15 kilometres from Madurai, exactly at half past four in the evening. Totally exhausted with day-long travel, I was resting against a beautiful pond (at the base of the hillock) packed with lotus flowers and lily pads, so scenic that it already started its relieving effect on my strained mind. 

   Along with me, three locals were discussing in the Madurai accent of Tamil. One person while feeding fish took note of my presence and asked about me to which I responded that I am a tourist came to visit Madurai. He grew excited and told that he is a supporting actor in the Tamil film industry and known for his stunt roles. As he continued with his shabby amusing English, which I felt difficult to understand. I took help from one of close Tamil speaking friend Nagraj to communicate with the person (I referred him as stunt anna/brother as i could not remember his name) in Tamil and he did. To my surprise, The stunt-brother, invited me to his home so that I can get proper rest with coffee and also watch IPL till I leave for night stay at Madurai town. To his invitation, I requested whether I can stay for a night at his home and pay for it. He agreed immediately but disappointed with the payment part. He said no need for any pay and he offered to cook whatever I wish to eat for the dinner. After quick Darshnam of the temple, without wasting any time, we both rode to his home.

   With ample open space around, we bumped into a newly built colourful house which is situated around 3 km from Samanar Malai, our meeting point. He introduced his wife and proudly told that she is a well-educated woman with good command over her English to which I couldn't agree more. She greeted me with an Indian NAMASTE  and asked me to sit on the sofa, preserving the ancient Indian practice of ATITHI DEVO BHAVA, which translates to "guest is equivalent to god". The stunt-brother switched on the IPL and his better half rushed to the kitchen to make some drink. In no time, I was sipping hot coffee on a comfortable sofa in a simple yet beautiful home watching IPL. I felt relaxed. 

   With a humble composure, she asked where I am from and how did I knew his husband. With little uneasiness, I responded that I am a tourist came to visit Madurai and met her husband just an hour back. She expressed bit of disbelief. She took stunt-brother into kitchen room and murmured something. It made me bit uncomfortable. In some time, she came back confirmed the fact that I had never met her husband before and rushed back. Again some murmuring sounds. As a stranger, I sensed her discomfort and decided against my plan of staying the entire night at that home. After some time, the stunt brother came out with a gloomy face confirming my assumption. Before stunt-brother uttered a word, I informed him that I had just come for some rest and will leave to Madurai town in some time.

   By that time, the stunt brother and I were no strangers to each other and we shared a natural bond of brotherhood. My willingness to departure even saddened him more. I felt sorry for him but I couldn't help. Upon finishing my coffee, I asked the lady for the basin to wash it, to which she politely disagreed by saying "washing by a guest is against our Tamil culture" and accepted my coffee cup. I stretched a bit, prepared to leave. While igniting my Himalayan, I shared utmost gratitude to the amazing couple who made me feel like home with their hospitality. Even at the last moment, by considering that I am still a guest, the lady asked me to stay for the night with some resistance in her voice. Even though she had some discomfort in her heart, she felt bad the way I came and departing. The stunt brother guided me until the main road that connects to Madurai town, where we both stopped our vehicles, holding hands together, hugging and appreciating each other. He opened up that I am a good man and how he really wished to host me for that night. With genuine affection, I appreciated everything he has done for me with such an innocent heart. Again He personally dialled Selva (a friend from Couchsurfing) and took note of my stay at the hotel for that night. I felt nothing but deep affection for the stunt-brother. While riding back to town, rewinding the events in mind, I thanked this beautiful couple who lasted only for 3 hours in my life but left lasting trace of a unique experience.

Couchsurfing, Selva & Krishna

     Couchsurfing is an app for travellers community that is based on kindness and trust. It's a unique community where a traveller can request for host and also can stay at hosts house if the request is being accepted, without any fee. Though one gets free accommodation, the purpose is far greater than just saving money, it inspires to build connections, to connect with locality and offer the greatest gift blessed to humanity ie kindness. You can download the Couchsurfing app from Play and App store.

 Selva, a native of Madurai accepted my request for a night stay, just a week before my travel to Madurai. When I was at Madurai, after a day-long exploration of the ancient city, all I wished for a good night rest. Unfortunately, Selva bumped into a situation and couldn't host me at his home but he personally booked a hotel for me, assigned one of his close friend Krishna to help me with my stay. Krishna, a joyful yet interactive personality helped me not only to locate the hotel but also to untie the complexly tied baggage from my Himalayan. He also invited to join for a dinner party to which, I resisted sighting my tiredness and Coronavirus reasons. "Madurai is an ancient temple city & its street food is as old as its history" highlighting the food customs, both Selva & Krishna convinced to accept food from them and I gave up. Krishna with great excitement brought Idiyappam with grilled chicken. It was delicious. Before my sleep, I dialled both Selva and Krishna and shared my gratitude for the outstanding kindness and hospitality. I couldn't be more grateful for these amazing souls.

Epilogue:

   Tales of South series holds short stories of my solo motorcycle ride throughout the southern India. Though my personal experiences, it's not really about me, it's about SOUTH, its kind people, unique culture, customs, beliefs, food and biodiversity. Through this series, you will have a glimpse of how unique is this region in India as well as in the entire world. This is the second blog out of my three blogs of South series and the stories are organized in chronological order.

 👈 First blog of the series at Tales of South: blog - 1

 👉 Travel stories from South India at Dynamics of Gods Own Country

Find the Jasmine association of Madurai in this interesting BBC article.

 

Thank you for reading :)