Pondi: A French Colonial Settlement in India

 

(Iconic Gandhi statute near Promenade Beach) 

I am a huge admirer of any specific civilisation and its customs. In this blog with phase 1, I am going to highlight that only with lifestyle and culture. Followed to which you will get insights of tourist destinations with a short description that will guide you through your travel plans in this unique territory of India.

 

 Phase - 1 (Custom & Culture) 

The Union Territory(UT) of Puducherry, more popularly Pondicherry/Pondi, is one of the eight UT’s in India. Consists of four-port districts (i.e. Pondicherry, Mahé, Karaikal & Yanam) which interestingly does not share any border, speak four unique languages, i.e. Tamil, Telugu, Malayalam & French. Once administered by France, it’s a french colonial settlement in India and plays a key role in bilateral relations between the two nations.

   The majority of locals in Pondi speak a different dialect of Tamil, equally funny as is unique. Often you will come across uncommon words like Arulmigu, Murugan, Covil/coil, salai etc. If you are not-Tamil speaker, then walking along the streets by listening evening debates of locales indeed a funny thing to experience. You will gulp this language with great satisfaction.

   While wandering along the streets- in front of each house, one can easily get pulled by colourful Mugulu-Rangoli’s crafted along the road, which is one of the oldest Indian tradition showcases the religious inclination of the people of Pondi. They have immense faith in lord Ganesh, the Lord of Knowledge. This belief further strengthens when you will see the depiction of Lord Ganesha in front of every household irrespective of rich or less privileged. The entire house fills with fragrance and spirituality when they do puja with flowers, incense and chanting mantras.

   The Feminine community in this part is slightly more self-driven as compared to other corners of India, probably thanks to the colonial side effects. A large of pool of women commute in bi-cycle to their respective workplaces will undoubtedly catch your attention. Whether the women selling sea creatures or delivering tasty food through food delivery agencies, you will indeed feel the immense contribution of women workforce in the local business and street markets. Even the majority of municipality workers are women and work hard late at night to making sure that you wake up with a clean town.

   I am a big fan of streets and structures. If you love the same, then Pondi is the ideal place for you. Starting from the famed white-town, which is known for its French colonial-era villas made of perfectly rectangular structures to Raj Nivas, the house of the secretariat of Puducherry. It also contains countless other tourist attractions. The MG road area and Heritage town have nothing less to offer to that of White town. Combined, they hold one of the vibrant urban markets consists of fashion outlets, street strolls, eateries that serve the Franco-Tamil cuisines, big shopping malls and grand canals. Even the streets of remain Pondicherry is clean, uniquely organized, grouped with tiny homes and packed with kindest people alive. 

   Though the major religion is Hinduism, surprisingly one will find a large pool of Christian followers, again thanks to the colonial influence who left behind more than 20 magnificent churches that are serving the Christian community. Apart from that, a small section of Islamic followers thriving peacefully. This inter-faith makes this land very diverse and powering spiritual growth as a whole. 

Spiritual Projects

   Tamil tribe prioritizes the spiritual way of life over the materialistic life. That’s clearly visible in the houses, festivals and many international projects starting from Isha to Auroville foundation. 

   Auroville is an experimental township that practices spiritual consciousness and human unity. As a dream of a utopian society, it's an international community founded in 1968 which is now home to 1000 people from 35 nations. Matrimandir at the centre & surrounded by 20 sq km of dense forest, it has got 4 zones ie Residential, Industrial, Cultural & education and an international zone. The Auroville community is unique in all aspects. Entirely based on trust, it has got everything that requires a minimal comfortable life. It has spiritual centres, industries and production firms, cultural clubs, Library, Think-tanks, self-help groups(SHGs), economy model, payment system and governing methodologies. Due to its uniqueness, it attracts massive tourists from all over the world.

   Aurobindo Ashram is a spiritual community founded by visionary philosopher & spiritual master Shri Aurobinda and his spiritual collaborator Mirra Alfassa popularly known as The Mother. The disciples and followers of Aurobindo from all over the world come here to witness founders sacred Samadhi and practice integral yoga by learning its methodologies.

 

Sadhana forest, a unique project of afforestation and organic way of living. Founded by Yorit and Aviram, an Isreile origin Arovillan couple. They converted a barren 70 acres of land into a dense forest by the help of volunteers. They are leading a simplistic way of life, live inside Huts, consume organic food, practice meditation & kindness, volunteer for tree plantation & take care of them till it grows into considerable size.  

 Staying at Pondi

 As a major travel destination for foreigners as well as for Indians, Pondi has got everything for comfortable accommodation for varied travelling aspirants. If you are a budget traveller and looking for cheap accommodation, 13 local owned hostels and Aurobindo ashrams come to your rescue. Again if you are seeking luxury, its a complete paradise for you. You can opt for staying at one of the resort & villas located near the beautiful paradise beach facing the sea. Or the Ourovilla guest houses another good option to opt for. In the moderate price range, you will get countless lodges, guesthouses and also OYO rooms. I stayed at Natura backpackers hostel, and my stay there was amazingly comfortable. Rajesh, the person who manages the hostel is a kind yet caring person and made me feel like I was home during my short illness. 

Phase - 2 (Tourist Destinations) 

Pondicherry is a major tourist destination from both national & international travel enthusiasts. It has got almost everything with a minor exception high mountains. Whether you want to retire to a spiritual way life or witness the glistening vibrant markets inspired of french architects, whether you are a pure vegan or mad lover of seafood, whether you want to be lost in the wilderness or submerge yourself in the beaches, whether you want to settle into a simplistic way of living in Huts or interested in the international community, Pond has it all.

 ECR

  Pondi got all major modes of transport, i.e. Flight, Rail and Bus. If you are travelling from Chennai to Pondi, the best transport is by a car where you will be able to witness the picturesque East Coast Road (ECR), the second-largest coastal road in Asia that runs along the Bay of Bengal. Whiling riding the ECR, consider gazing the pristine sands of Kovalam Beach (near Covelong) or peek into the creativity of the Cholamandal Artists’ Village,  Grasp the relaxing effects of the Portuguese Catholic Church- which holds impressive grotto dedicated to Our Lady of Mount Carmel or peek into the 17th century Alamparai Fort. 

Mamallapuram Heritage: The temple town of Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram) - is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its iconic 8th century Shore Temple—should be your next stop. Explore this coastal town at leisure where awe-inspiring monolithic structures built by the Pallavas are framed against the blue waters of the Bay of Bengal. Other popular places at Mamallapuram include Mahishasura rock, Descents of Ganges, Arulmigu Sri Sthala Sayana Perumal Tirukovil Divya Desam, tiger rock, Shri Dharmaraj cave temple, India seashell museum, Pancha Rathas, Pidari Amman Ratha, Pallava beach and Mahabalipuram beach.

 Don't rush to leave as this place got many things to cover. Roam little around the site, try unique street foods at this historic location. 

Karaeswar Nataraj Temple: With its unique pyramid structure and iconic depiction of lord Shiva as Nataraj makes it a must place for a quick visit. Again this locations marks the beginning of Pondi.

 

Serenity Beach: One of Pondicherry’s sandy gems, Serenity Beach lives up to its name. It's widely popular for its sunrise where hauling boats can be seen under the shadow of sunrays. Neat waters along with serene surroundings, this is the most preferred place for sea surfers. Hurrey!!! Enjoyed ECR! Now slow down little, settle for a comfortable night and get ready to rock again:

Auroville

Matri Mandir, Auroville: Located in the experimental township of Auroville, The Matri Mandir is the most famous attraction in Pondicherry. It's covered with gold discs and surrounded by gardens called the Peace Area, which offer great views of the gigantic structure. The inner sanctum sanctuary contains the largest optically-perfect glass globe in the world and is open to a limited number of visitors daily. Again Its surrounded by an artificially created dense forest with the natural road without much of human interventions. Italian and western restaurants are very common, thanks to its Aurovillen community which includes people from 35 countries. Rent a bike and feel free to roam around. Unique experience guaranteed.

Auro Beach: Its the most preferred beach for Aurovillan community. Once upon a popular beach, its popularity decreased due to development of Promenade and Paradise beach.

 

Sadhana Forest:  A artificial forestation project scattered around 70 acres founded by Abhiram, an Israeli born Aurovillan. The forest run by volunteers only who live in the wooden huts and follow a simplistic lifestyle inspired by Vegan food. A tourist or outsider can live at that place provided by he has to pay the price for his accommodation and food. They have a library, a kitchen, the main office, the main hut that acts as a centre for the cultural and entertainment programs and interestingly all are wooden huts. Again they practice compassion and kindness with meditation programmes. This place is a perfect example of humanity of living in harmony with nature.

White Town

The iconic white-town known for its French colonial-era inspired villas, boulevards with French inscribed hoardings, monolithic shades of blues, yellows, pinks & grey structures, perfectly rectangular streets, vibrant markets, quirky eateries that offer franco-Tamilian cuisines. Its the major placeholder for most of the tourist attraction in Pondi starting from Aurobindo Ashram to promenade beach, popular Le cafe to secretariat building.

 

 

Aurobindo Ashram: A guided residential community on spirituality, yoga and healing based on Shri Aurobindo philosophy. The Ashram, which is also the main building holds the Samadhi of Shri Aurobindo and The Mother under a tree-shaded courtyard. The ashram got many interconnected buildings that provide services like Yoga, music, accommodation and vegan food. Don't misunderstand it with traditional gurukul ashrams that operate under tree huts, this Ashram got good buildings with french inspired quarters near town.

Promenade Beach: A kilometre-long beachfront that holds popular spots like the French War Memorial, Sunrise viewpoint, Gandhi statue, old harbour, Chief Secretariat building, famous Le Café, Dupleix Park and street food stalls. 

 

The Sacred Heart Basilica: Poindi has got more than 21 churches that offer seamless service to the followers of Lord Jesus, leading the pack is the iconic the-Sacred-heart-Basilica church. It is known for its Gothic architecture, rare multi-coloured glass inscriptions and a beautiful statue of Lord Jesus. Immaculate Conception Cathedral church is the second popular church to experience in the Pondi.

Vinayagar Temple: Arulmigu Manakula Vinayagar Temple is an ancient Hindu temple dedicated to Ganesh, lord of knowledge. Its well architected and well decorated with wall paintings depicting various forms of the deity. The temple elephant Laksmi, blesses devotees with her trunk on an exchange of coins.  

Markets: Exploring markets is always on the priority of a wanderer. He knows for sure that market is the epicentre of business as well as creativity, art and local customs. Stunning showcases of fashion outfits, dimly lighted restaurants, randomly packed handcrafts and salivating street food goes a long way in the memory lane. Pondi has got a vibrant market centred at a single large area near & around the white town. Popular among it is the JN road, MG road & Mission street shops whose history dates back to the century. Don't forget to taste unique South Indian foods like Idiyappam, Puttu, Apam, Idli, Dosa and coconut-derived foods. Pondi is also known for its alcohols.

 Other Attractions  

Paradise Beach: Tired of crowd and rush, then   Paradise Beach is a serene option to consider which situates around 12 km away from the city centre. Go for a backwater boating, dine at the artificial wooden huts, take beach ride with jeeps, experience the luxurious resorts-villas facing the sea at one side, exhale cold sea breeze or drench yourself in the magnificent Bay of Bengal, Paradise beach proudly stands with its name PARADISE.

Chunnaber Boat House: With pristine sand and crystallized water due to its distance from the city centre, this place is known for its boat ride. They have boats that can drop you at the beautiful Paradise beach.

Arikamedu: A structural remains that indicate the Roman trades with Pondicherry.

Botanical Garden:  In this garden, you will come across Aquarium, Toy train, Seed, children park, details of different kind of plants and flowers are presented along with their history. Noon is the preferred time as it helps escape with the scorching sun.

Lighthouse:  Pondy got two lighthouses, one at Promenade beach in front of Gandhi statue and the other is a little away from the main town. The former was used by french ships and now closed for public. But the latter gives a birds view of Pondicherry town and Bay of Bengal.

Gingee Fort: At Villupuram district, around 75 km from the town of Pondicherry, located the Gingee Fort (Senji/Chenji/Chanchi/Jinji/Senchi). Initially built by Ananta kon of the konar Dynasty around 1190 AD, this surviving fort witnessed many dynasties. This is an excellent place for family and small scale trekking as it scattered around three hillocks.

   These are the prominent places of Pondicehery but its heritage has not limited to these attractions. Other popular attractions are Raj Nivas, Jawahar toy museum, Pondicherry museum, Veerampattinam beach, Gokilambal Thirukameswarar Temple, Chidambaram temple, Bharathi Park, Varadaraja Perumal Temple, Church of Our Lady of Angels, The statue of Dupleix, Meeran Mosque, Ananda Ranga Pillai, ISKCON Pondicherry, ICYER and countless small scale temples, churches, Mosques scattered in & all around the city.

Disclaimer: This is a personal blog created from my personal travel experience at Pondi with little research over the internet. The writing is highly concentrated on major town of Pondicherry and may slightly differ with other regions of the UT.

***

Thank you for reading:) Dive into my other blogs at 👇

👈 Explore Road Less Travelled: Ride Through Koraput & Malkangiri

👉 Tales of South at Tales of South: blog - 1